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Besides their common history, Panama is well different from its Central American neighbors. While these are all suffering from the numerous earthquakes, and other natural and human disasters that hit them regularly, and as a consequence are struggling with weak economies, one notices at first sight the relative prosperity of Panama, and its capital, Panama City. The skyline from Panama City is quite breathtaking, and can compete with the most glamorous cities worldwide. Actually Panama has always been rather well off, being located at an important trading route, mainly for the commerce with gold and silver from the South American countries.

Panama City lies at the Pacific entrance of the canal. I spent just one night here, and drove north the next day, to Colon. This city is located on the other entrance, the one on the Caribbean Sea. While I drove slowly in this town, looking for a place to stay overnight, I felt immediately that I was entering a totally different world. Colon knew better days; it was even quite a prosperous city. But its decline started in the 60ies, and none of the successive Panama’s governments managed to stop this. More than 40% of the population is jobless, and as many people try to survive with an income below the poverty level. They live insalubrious houses, eaten by mold; many of them are squatted. The worst damage is patched with tarpaulin and wooden planks. Here and there some garish colors bring a bit of hope in this grey world.

On the frontispieces, fighting depression and boredom, the people and lots of children crouch on the sidewalks, staring at nothing. I have seen lots of miserable places on my travels, the last one just a few days ago in Managua, where hundreds of families live on a dump, but somehow this is almost even more depressing. I feel really uncomfortable here, maybe because of the sight of all these big houses that once were the homes of rich and wealthy people; maybe because of all these suspicious gazes that follow me everywhere in this city, me, the only foreigner around.

Panama City

Panama City

Photo prise lors d'un cortège à Panama City

Photo prise lors d'un cortège à Panama City

Colon