Officially the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan is closed. But apparently as a foreigner I have a chance to enter.
That's what they told me.
So I had an early start this morning, (I have many early starts these days, and I am getting slightly tired) and I saw the busiest borderpoint since I am in the -stan lands. Many people are crossing, just showing an ID card. Even cars are crossing, in both directions. No sign of refugees. I expected massive military presence and long hours of waiting. No, just a few joking soldiers. Nobody checked my luggage. I just had to tell them that I did not carry any weapons nor drugs, and that was it.
I passed both control points in 50 min, never have I been so fast.
The most dangerous thing is actually that, once out of Kazakhstan, I cannot return there, as I have a single entry visa only.. So, in case of trouble in Kyrgyzstan, I must find another way to get out. As I had no idea what would be the situation on the Kyrgyz side, I had to take that risk.
I drove very carefully to Bishkek, but here same situation: no sign whatsoever of what one would expect from a city who just had a revolution 2 mth ago. All shops are open, people sit in cafes and restaurants.
Osh, where the killings occuredaand still occur is some 700km south of Bishkek.
But when I met my friend Tolkun, who is of Uzbek origin, he confessed me that he is living in fear, does not see a future for him anymore in this country. Tolkun is a notorious blogger and correspondent for Al Jazeera in Bishkek. This might protect him, but can also get dangerous when he gets disturbing...
In 3 days is the great referendum about the new constitution, another dangerous day. I will be out of Bishkek by then and riding towards China